California dreamin'.

I was pleased to have caught chef Dan Barber's editorial on late blight in last Sunday's New York Times, despite my being in The OC and the lure of another almost foreign daily (that would be The Los Angeles Times). Late blight -- even the name sounds boring, and maybe a bit more serious than it actually is. The disease does not harm people, but it can decimate potato and tomato crops across an entire region within days. It was one of the first topics of conversation when I returned to work in New York. My boss wanted us to be sure we understood what it was and the effects it was having on the local tomato crop (i.e., fewer tomatoes, higher prices). Mostly, he wanted us to be prepared for customers to grill us on the origins of the gorgeous heirloom tomatoes we serve in our panzanella (New Jersey). It's been a long while since I fielded questions from a customer so engaged, but I'm glad to carry some of Barber's wisdom with me and to pass it on.

Understanding where food comes from and the obstacles farmers face in getting that food to market has helped foster a deep appreciation for the hands that feed me. It also helps me relish the local, seasonal food I encounter while in different parts of the country. In California, where late blight was nary an issue, I enjoyed beautiful, local heirloom tomatoes as much as possible. The gems pictured above and below were on the menu at The Winery restaurant in Irvine, Calif. Sliced and layered with a creamy burrata, topped with a touch of extra virgin olive oil, balsamic and micro arugula, they embodied summer on a plate. But like summer, all good things come to an end, and I was reminded of that when I picked up my CSA share this week: two baby heirlooms and a pint of sun gold tomatoes. All delicious, I assure you, but regrettably not as plentiful.